The Aegean · In season March to May and September to November

Spetses

Whitewashed neoclassical houses, boutiques and cafés line streets that are very much alive. Private cars are banned; the island moves by bicycle.

Eat

Orloff Sophisticated Greek cooking over the old harbour — the daily catch of sea urchin, when the boats agree.
Tarsanas An authentic taverna on the marina that sends out its own boats each morning — the fish goes to the tables and the market, in that order.
Tiramisù Sweets & Coffee Specialty coffee and homemade desserts on a small terrace — a slice for the walk home, or eaten on the spot with no regrets.
Bikini The waterside bar for after dinner — a cocktail by the water first, dancing as the night deepens.
Nero tis Agapis Water of Love, by name and by setting — a romantic seafood room right on the seafront, the views doing half the work.
Palms A cocktail or an aperitif at the marble counter, the waterfront promenade below and the sun going down over the Saronic Gulf.

Poseidonion Grand Hotel The grande dame of the waterfront — sea views, a superb spa and gourmet dining; a drink on the terrace suffices for those staying elsewhere.
Orloff Resort Relaxed and stylish, at the edge of town — the upper-floor rooms carry the views.
Yayaki A small romantic boutique — pool, yoga studio, and a vegetarian breakfast worth planning around.

Paralia Zogeria Crystal-clear water in an idyllic setting — sun beds to rent, a book, and the afternoon disposed of.

On the Deck Swimwear and resort wear, well selected — the shop to fix a summer wardrobe mid-summer.
Vanilla The patisserie of the island — cakes for whatever the occasion turns out to be.